Giornale III

Thomas Cane

               After being swarmed by mosquitoes and walking along tinkling amphora shards, Emma MacKinnon and I left Monte Testaccio and headed over to Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.  Having walked to Testaccio previously that day we decided to once again go by foot.  Walking over Ponte Testaccio the rush hour of the city came to life as cars and Vespa’s piled into the streets.  After scanning google maps and taking a couple unnecessary loops we finally saw the crossed keys designating that we had reached our goal. 

               Passing through the gates opened up into a beautiful quaint green space in front of the church.  In the center of the courtyard was a small fountain adorned by a large amphora in the center acting as the spout for water to flow.  Small hedge bushes flank the entrance, and on either side of the fountain are rose bushes with several blooming buds on them.  Surrounding this courtyard are more bushes filled with flowers as well as some vines climbing up the surrounding walls keeping the church secluded.  Sadly Emma forgot a shawl to adhere to proper church-ware, so we briefly part ways in the courtyard while I explore the church and she sketched the serene surroundings.  On the exterior walls are covered with inscriptions quoting various popes and dedications.  At the right end is a dedication with a friar crowned by a frieze of bishops along with a skull and crossed bones below.  This striking piece stand in solitude while the black marble columns and plaques quiets the surrounding area with their presence.  Looking at the left end there are the faces of tombs that would have once housed the bodies of various saints, martyrs, and other church figures.  Opening the plain green doors I crossed the threshold into the church.

               Instantly all noise fades away and an empty space lies before me.  No one is praying, no tourist is wandering, and only the lone security guard occupies the space.  My initial reaction is to stand perfectly still as to not make any noise and simply look forward and feel the church surrounding me.  Simple chairs are lined up in rows instead of the pews from the large basilicas we had become accustomed to.  Instead of immense sculptures of saints and martyrs there were simple arches leading into the aisles that opened up the space even more.  Walking to the right aisle I was greeted with a startling scene.  An unlabeled corridor that was behind a locked gate housed a small barely distinguishable statue with its head tilted to one side.  The light at the time shrouded the character and made it almost invisible and reminiscent of a horror movie creature.  The rest of the aisle was lined with typical church décor, with paintings of saints and sculptures of Santa Cecelia.  The baldachin was a simple structure with elegant black marble standing above the tomb housing the relics.  Near the tomb was a beautiful bundle of fresh flowers that scented their surroundings.  The left aisle practically mirrored the right in style, but with slightly more sculpture dedicated to the papacy.  Before leaving I stood in the entrance again and gazed up at the brilliant painting depicting Santa Cecilia being crowned with a host of angels surrounding her.

               Leaving the church I met Emma peacefully sitting in the courtyard.  Taking once look at the surroundings we gather up our things and set off towards Tonnarello together after an incredibly long and exhausting day.